Short answer: to post ceramics or glass safely, wrap each piece individually in several layers of bubble wrap (or another cushioning wrap), protect handles, rims and spouts with extra layers, place a layer of cushioning in the base of a strong box, keep every item at least a few centimetres away from the walls and from each other, fill all remaining space so nothing can move, add a cushioning layer on top, then seal the box firmly and mark it as fragile. For valuable or very delicate pieces, pack the wrapped item in a smaller box and then pack that box inside a larger one with cushioning all round.
Breakages are expensive: you lose the product, the postage and often the customer. This guide sets out a complete protective setup for small sellers posting mugs, plates, bowls, vases, candle jars and drinking glasses, explains why each step matters, and lists the supplies involved. It is general packing guidance; no method can guarantee that a parcel will never be damaged.
Contents
- Why ceramics and glass break in the post
- The supplies you need
- The packing method, step by step
- Adjustments by item type
- The box-in-box method
- Packing sets and mixed orders
- Testing your setup
- Keeping records for damage claims
- Mistakes that lead to breakages
- Questions sellers ask
Why ceramics and glass break in the post
Understanding the causes makes the method easier to follow. Most breakages come from one of four things:
- Shock from a drop. A parcel dropped onto a hard floor stops suddenly. If nothing absorbs that shock, it passes straight into the item.
- Movement inside the box. If an item can slide, it hits the box wall or another item every time the parcel moves. Repeated small knocks chip rims and crack thin glass.
- Point pressure. Handles, spouts, rims and the edges of plates take a concentrated load when pressed against a wall or another item.
- Crushing. A weak or underfilled box collapses under other parcels and the item takes the weight.
Good packing addresses each one: cushioning absorbs shock, filling stops movement, extra layers protect weak points, and a strong, well-filled box resists crushing.
The supplies you need
| Job | Material | Pack Solution option |
|---|---|---|
| Wrap each item | Small-bubble wrap for close wrapping | Small bubble wrap, 10mm bubbles, 100m rolls in 300mm and 500mm widths |
| Extra cushioning, bulky items | Large-bubble wrap | Large bubble wrap, 25mm bubbles, 50m rolls in 300mm and 500mm widths |
| Paper-based wrap (alternative) | Honeycomb paper | Honeycomb paper, 80gsm, 250m rolls in 395mm and 500mm widths |
| Fill empty space | Loose fill, paper or air pillows | EcoFlo packing peanuts, kraft paper, air cushion film (needs a machine) |
| Outer box | Double wall corrugated box | Double wall boxes, sold per box, minimum 5 per size |
| Inner box (box-in-box) | Smaller single wall box | Single wall boxes |
| Seal | 48mm packing tape or printed fragile tape | Fragile tape or brown packing tape |
| Warn handlers | Fragile labels | Fragile warning labels, 89 x 32mm, 1000 per roll |
You do not need everything on this list. A small shop sending a few mugs a week can manage with small bubble wrap, one type of void fill, double wall boxes and tape. Add materials as volumes or product values grow.
The packing method, step by step
Step 1: check and clean the item
Inspect the piece for chips or cracks before it goes in the box. A crack that was already there can open up in transit, and you want to know it was not caused by your packing. Make sure the item is dry.
Step 2: fill hollow spaces
Gently stuff the inside of mugs, jugs, vases and bowls with crumpled paper. A filled hollow is stiffer and supports the walls from inside. Do not pack it so tightly that it presses outwards on thin glass.
Step 3: protect weak points first
Wrap a small piece of bubble wrap or paper around the handle, spout or any protruding part before wrapping the whole item. These are the points that take concentrated pressure, and an extra layer there makes a significant difference.
Step 4: wrap the whole item
Wrap the item in several layers of small-bubble wrap, bubbles facing inwards towards the item, and tape the wrap closed so it cannot unravel. Cover the top and bottom as well as the sides. The number of layers depends on the item's fragility and weight; for a typical mug, two or three full turns plus the ends is a common starting point. Test and adjust.
Step 5: prepare the box base
Choose a box that leaves room for cushioning on every side; our guide to choosing box sizes covers the measuring method in detail. As a starting point for fragile items, allow at least about 5cm between the wrapped item and each wall. Put a layer of cushioning in the base: crumpled paper, a few sheets of large-bubble wrap or a bed of loose fill.
Step 6: place the item centrally
Set the wrapped item in the middle of the box, upright if it has a natural base, so it does not touch the walls. If you are packing several items, keep them apart, with cushioning between each one, and place heavier items lower.
Step 7: fill all remaining space
Fill around and above the item until it cannot move. Loose fill flows into gaps; crumpled paper is easy to control; air pillows are quick on a busy bench. Then add a final layer on top so the lid presses gently on the cushioning, not on the item.
Step 8: the shake test
Close the flaps without taping and give the box a gentle shake. If you can feel or hear anything moving, open it and add more fill. This single check catches most packing errors.
Step 9: seal the box
Seal the top and bottom with the H-taping method: one strip along the centre seam and one across each end seam. Use 48mm tape for most boxes. Printed fragile tape seals the box and carries a warning in one step; standard brown or clear tape with separate fragile labels works just as well.
Step 10: label clearly
Put the shipping label flat on the top face. Add fragile labels or tape on the top and sides. Warnings do not make the box stronger and cannot guarantee careful handling, but they tell handlers what is inside.
Adjustments by item type
Mugs and cups
Fill the inside, wrap the handle separately, then wrap the whole mug. For sets, wrap each mug individually and stand them upright with cushioning between them. Avoid nesting mugs inside each other.
Plates and flat dishes
Wrap each plate individually and stand plates on their edges, like records in a crate, rather than stacking them flat. Edges are strong when vertical; a flat stack concentrates pressure on the bottom plate. Put cushioning between each plate.
Bowls
Wrap each bowl, then stack no more than a few together with a layer of cushioning inside each bowl. Pack them upright or upside down, with cushioning under and over the stack.
Vases and tall items
Fill the inside, protect the rim with extra wrap, and choose a box tall enough to give cushioning above and below. Tall items are more likely to tip, so fill the space around them firmly.
Drinking glasses and stemware
Fill the bowl of the glass, wrap the stem separately, then wrap the whole glass. Stand glasses upright and well apart. Thin glass benefits most from the box-in-box method.
Candles in glass jars
Treat them as glassware. Wax adds weight, so make sure the base cushioning is firm and the box is strong enough. Check whether the candle should be kept upright and away from heat.
The box-in-box method
For valuable, thin or awkwardly shaped pieces, packing a box inside another box adds a second protective layer. The inner box holds the wrapped item firmly; the cushioning between the boxes absorbs the shock of a drop before it reaches the inner box.
- Wrap the item and pack it snugly in a small inner box with cushioning so it cannot move.
- Seal the inner box.
- Choose an outer box that leaves space for cushioning on every side of the inner box. A gap of about 5cm or more is a common starting point.
- Put cushioning in the base of the outer box, centre the inner box, fill the sides and top, and seal.
The trade-off is cost, weight and size. A larger outer box can move the parcel into a higher postage band, and you are using two boxes and more fill. Use the method where the value of the item, or the cost of a breakage, justifies it.
An illustrative cost comparison
This is an illustrative example with assumed figures, not our prices. Suppose a single-box setup costs a certain amount in materials, and the box-in-box setup costs an extra amount for the second box and the additional fill. If your breakage rate on a product is noticeable, multiply the number of breakages you would avoid by the cost of each breakage (replacement item, second postage and the time spent handling the complaint). If that figure is larger than the extra packaging cost across all orders, the box-in-box method pays for itself. If breakages are already rare, it may not be worth it for every order.
Packing sets and mixed orders
Single items are the easy case. Most breakage complaints come from orders with several pieces in one box, because each extra item is another hard object that can knock against its neighbours.
Use dividers or individual cells
Where you regularly send the same set, such as four mugs or six glasses, consider building simple dividers from corrugated card offcuts so each wrapped piece sits in its own compartment. Dividers stop items migrating towards each other during transit. Without dividers, make sure there is a generous layer of cushioning between every pair of items, not just around the outside of the group.
Mix fragile and robust items carefully
An order that combines, say, a ceramic vase with a heavy candle or a book needs thought. Put the heavy, robust item at the bottom, separated from the fragile item by a thick layer of cushioning, so the heavy item cannot shift into it. If the heavy item is very dense, it may be safer to send it in a separate box.
Watch the total weight
A box full of crockery becomes heavy quickly. Heavy parcels are harder to handle and more likely to be put down hard. Keep each box to a weight one person can lift comfortably, and split large orders across several boxes, labelling them "1 of 3", "2 of 3" and so on so the customer knows to expect them all.
Testing your setup
Before you roll out a new packing setup, it is worth testing it. A simple, informal approach:
- Pack an item exactly as you would for a customer.
- Do the shake test. Nothing should move.
- If you can spare a sample, carry out gentle drop checks onto a carpeted floor from a low height, on each face and corner, and then inspect the item.
- Post a test parcel to yourself or a friend and inspect it on arrival, including the condition of the box.
These checks are not a laboratory test and do not replicate every condition in a courier network, but they quickly show obvious weaknesses. Record the setup that works for each product, including box size, wrap layers and fill, so everyone packs the same way.
Keeping records for damage claims
Even well-packed parcels are sometimes damaged. If you need to make a claim with a carrier, or simply want to learn from a breakage, good records help.
- Photograph high-value orders before sealing. A quick photo showing the wrapped item in the box with cushioning in place takes seconds and shows how it was packed.
- Keep your packing specification written down. A one-line note per product, such as "double wall 12 x 12 x 12, two turns 10mm bubble, paper fill, fragile tape", shows a consistent method.
- Ask customers for photos of damage. Photos of the outer box, the inner packing and the broken item usually show what went wrong: a crushed corner, an item touching the wall, or movement inside.
- Check carrier requirements. Carriers set their own rules for what they will compensate and how packaging must be done. Read the terms for the service you use before you rely on a claim.
Use what you learn. If several breakages show the same pattern, such as chipped rims or cracked handles, add protection at that point rather than adding more wrap everywhere.
Mistakes that lead to breakages
- Items touching the box walls. The wall gives little protection on impact. Keep a cushioning gap.
- Items touching each other. Two hard items knocking together is a common source of chips.
- Underfilled boxes. Anything that can move eventually will.
- Relying on a fragile label. Labels inform; they do not protect.
- Single wall boxes for heavy breakables. Heavier fragile items benefit from double wall board.
- Too few layers on handles and rims. Weak points need extra protection.
- Reusing a weakened box. A previously used box may have lost strength at the folds and corners.
Choosing between wrapping materials
Bubble wrap is the most common choice because it cushions well and wraps closely. Large 25mm bubbles add more cushioning and space-filling for bulkier pieces, while 10mm bubbles wrap small and curved items more neatly. Honeycomb paper is a paper-based alternative that some brands prefer for presentation or because their customers prefer paper. Our separate comparison of honeycomb paper and bubble wrap goes through the trade-offs; the short version is that both can work, and what matters most is using enough of it and filling the box properly.
On disposal: Recycle Now's guidance on plastic bags and wrapping lists bubble wrap among the films that selected larger supermarket stores accept at their collection points, and the store detail on its Recycling Locator shows which materials each store takes. Cardboard boxes can generally go in household recycling with tape removed, according to Recycle Now's cardboard guidance. Many customers also keep bubble wrap to reuse.
Questions sellers ask
How many layers of bubble wrap should I use for a mug?
As a starting point, two or three full turns of small-bubble wrap plus the top and bottom, with an extra layer on the handle. Adjust based on the mug's weight and fragility, and test with a sample.
Should the bubbles face in or out?
Most packers face the bubbles inwards, towards the item, so the bubbles cushion the surface directly. Either way, what matters most is enough layers and a well-filled box.
Is a double wall box necessary for ceramics?
Not always, but it is the safer choice for heavier items, multiple items and anything valuable. A single item that is light and very well cushioned can travel in a single wall box on a short journey.
Can I use packing peanuts on their own?
Loose fill is good for filling space, but on its own it lets heavy items migrate towards the bottom over time. Wrap the item first, then use loose fill around it.
Do fragile labels make a difference?
They tell handlers that the contents need care, which is useful, but they do not physically protect anything. Pack as if the label were not there.
What about posting a full dinner set?
Split large sets across several boxes so each one stays manageable in weight, and stand plates on their edges. Heavy, overfilled boxes are more likely to be dropped and to crush their own contents.
How do I stop plates chipping at the edges?
Wrap each plate individually, stand plates vertically rather than flat, put cushioning between each one, and keep the stack away from the box walls.
Summary
Wrap every piece individually with extra protection on weak points, cushion the base and top, keep items away from the walls and from each other, fill every gap until nothing moves, use a strong box sealed with the H-taping method, and mark it as fragile. For valuable or delicate items, use the box-in-box method, and for sets, separate every piece. Test your setup once, write it down, keep simple records, and pack the same way every time.
